How to choose the best diamond for your hand and finger shape
Before you fall in love with one of our lab-grown diamonds for your (or her) engagement ring, take a careful look at the hand it is going to accessorize. You may both have fallen in love with the look of a particular celebrity’s or friend’s ring and have decided to choose something similar, but we recommend you take a moment to consider the shape, finger length and overall look of the hand it will sit on.
We all have slightly different hand and finger shapes – and not every diamond will look good on every hand. In fact, a certain diamond shape may look completely different on two different hands, simply because the hand or fingers are not the same.
Lab-created diamonds come in the same cuts and shapes as mined diamonds, with the same 10 rating on the Mohs Hardness Scale, so you can choose from our stunning lab-made diamond shapes – and make the right choice for you.
All finger types – The Round Brilliant
The round brilliant is the most versatile of all diamond shapes. It looks universally good on all finger lengths and hand shapes, large or small, and its balanced shape flatters almost every wearer. The round diamond shape has been a traditional look for engagement rings for decades, particularly after advances in the ‘brilliant’ style of cutting. It is the number one most popular choice for engaged couples to this day. The so-called “brilliant” cut creates 58 facets which reflect the maximum light return, and as round diamonds face upwards, they reflect more light return than some other diamond shapes. Its shape is versatile and looks good in any setting, or as a single solitaire.
Long, thin fingers - Radiant, Cushion, Princess and Emerald
Does she have long, thin fingers? Elegantly long fingers look good with square shapes such as Radiant, Cushion, Emerald and Princess cuts. Longer fingers can also carry a wider band.
With 70 facets on is pavilion and crown, the Radiant has superlative brilliance and fire, only surpassed by the Round Brilliant. Radiants have 8 beveled corners and they are durable against chipping, snagging and breakage, making them excellent for an active lifestyle. The Radiant cut is also well known for looking larger than most of the other diamonds of the same carat weight, giving it extra “real estate” on the finger. Radiants are highly brilliant, forgiving cuts, so you can get away with a lesser quality diamond in terms of clarity and coloration.
Originally known as the “old mine” cut, the Cushion shape has been around for centuries. It consists of a square or rectangular shape with rounded-off corners - and it looks a lot like a cushion, hence its name. While generally less brilliant than round brilliant diamonds, cushion cut diamonds often have better fire which is part of their appeal. The Cushion has an attractive, vintage look, and is a cross between a Princess and a Round with no sharp edges to catch on clothing!
The Princess it is the second most popular choice for engagement rings. It can be square or moderately rectangular and looks equally dramatic in a contemporary or antique styled setting. Princess diamonds have a slightly lower price per carat than round cut diamonds, because its shape allows two equally sized princess cut diamonds to be cut from the same rough stone with relatively little waste. It is the most brilliant of the so-called “fancy” shapes, with intense faceting and versatility in most settings. Princess cut diamonds hide inclusions and poor coloring well, so you can save money in those areas.
Elegant and sophisticated, the Emerald shape varies from nearly square to a narrow rectangle. Its unique look features a flat surface and chiseled step cut sides, giving it a larger appearance than other diamonds of the same carat weight. While you won’t get the immediate sparkle of a round brilliant-cut diamond, the Emerald cut will give you drama and distinction in spades. Because this cut has a wide, flat table, flaws and color clarity tend to be more visible, so you’ll want to opt for a high-grade stone. It features an 8-edged cut which does not snag on clothing. It looks super flattering on those with long fingers.
Short, chubby fingers – Pear, Marquise or Oval
Women with short, chubby fingers should try elongated shapes such as Pear, Marquise or Oval as they will tend to make fingers look long and slender. Narrower bands can also make short fingers look longer.
Pear shaped diamonds date back to 1458, when they were introduced by a diamond cutter named Lodewyk Van Berquem. In a pear brilliant cut, the diamond usually consists of 56 facets and due to its elongated shape, it tends to look larger for its carat weight compared to a round diamond and it slenderizes the look of the finger. Pear shapes can be shorter and fatter pear or a longer, slimmer version, depending on your taste.
Originally commissioned by King Louis X1V of France for the Marquise de Pompadour, the Marquise is a football shaped, elongated diamond which was allegedly created to echo the shape of her perfect mouth.
The Marquise looks like a long oval which has been stretched out to a point at each end. It is usually worn with the oval shape pointing downwards on the finger, but on rare occasions you will see one with the oval worn from side to side. A marquise diamond should have a symmetrical ratio of 2:1 to give it that classic boat shape. They are most often seen as center diamonds for engagement rings and wedding rings, but with side stones to balance the long, narrow shape. The Marquise has the largest crown surface area of any diamond shape, giving the illusion of greater size. It is a modified brilliant cut with 58 facets, so has sparkle and scintillation galore. The Marquise is unique looking and relatively unusual, so it will make you stand out from the crowd.
The Oval is a unique take on a classic shape. The Oval shape was created by Lazare Kaplan in the 1960s and is a modified brilliant cut, so you’ll get the fire and brilliance of a traditional round. Oval diamonds have the added advantage of an elongated shape, which can create the illusion of greater size, so it is perfect for shorter fingers, as this cut elongates them. The Oval is durable for everyday wear as there are no sharp edges.
Here are some other general rules:
Women with slender fingers should wear smaller stones and a medium thickness band. Stick to delicate styles that will not look over-the-top on your hand.
Women with small hands also need to avoid being overpowered with elaborate disproportionately oversized diamonds. Small Round, Princess, Cushion or Heart shaped stones will work better.
Women with large hands should avoid delicate, slender rings, but heart and round shapes can be flattering. Larger rings with bold designs work well with big hands.
Bottom line advice: If possible, try on as many different shapes as you can before making a commitment! Your ring will be worn for a long time, so it makes sense to choose the right shape to show off your finger and hand shape to their best advantage.